Sustainable Fashion Day at Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2018
Since 2012, Lakmé Fashion Week has led conversations that preserve, promote and resurge the fashion industry’s interest in Indian handlooms and textiles. Every season, the platform takes pride in celebrating indigenous crafts and artisans through strong and powerful initiatives and programmes. The upcoming Winter/Festive 2018 edition will be no different and promises to offer much more.
With a special focus on Rajasthani & Odisha handwoven fabrics to khadi weaves and Kanjivaram to ecological fibers, the Sustainable Fashion Day (SFD) on 23rdAugust, will bring to life the magic of Indian heritage crafts. With the aim to evolve mindsets and create an inclusive conversation around sustainable fashion in India, this special day will host a series of curated shows, collaboration between skilled artisans and innovative designers handpicked from around the country.
THE VARIOUS SHOWS AND PRESENTATIONS ON DAY 2 AT LAKMÉ FASHION WEEK ARE:
12:30PM – RUNWAY
Khadi and Village Industries Commission Presents
Lars Andersson | Buna | The Third Floor Clothing | Jewellyn Alvares
KVIC x LFW will do a Khadi showcase with 4 emerging designers
Lars Andersson: Designer Lars Andersson is known to create contemporary knitwear that exudes luxury both aesthetically and tactilely. The designer’s collection at Lakmé Fashion Week uses Khadi and Matka fabrics in its purest form. It’s a juxtaposition between masculine and feminine, between west and east, between modern and traditional. It’s a love story for Khadi and Matka.
Buna: Buna’s WF’19 collection ‘Time Whisperer’ is rooted in the Japanese concept of Wabi- Sabi, the beauty that comes from imperfections, transience & the profundity in nature. By collaborating with KVIC, Buna endeavours to re-establish what khadi means to global culture and take this creative collaboration to a luxury audience. The designer rediscovers the labels roots through Khadi. The collaboration celebrates the beauty of the fabrics imperfections with patchwork & pieces the offcuts to create new textures. Nature block prints of delicate flora with shadowy placements express the quality of transience and mystery. Pretty hedgerow flowers, buds, leaves and berries are captured on sheer khadi silks & muslins to create nostalgia. The appliqué embroidery with a homegrown feel creates a sense of calm & repose. A rural bucolic setting with faded blooms brings a vintage, keepsake quality.
The Third Floor Clothing: The designer in this collaboration retains his core design elements, which include layering, androgynous silhouettes, Long tunics with pants and jackets (sets of three garments), decorous and modest clothing.
The label will experiment with embroidery or surface technique to enhance the overall look of the garments. The color palette of the collection will be restricted to maximum 4 deep hues and the looks will be tone-on-tone.
Fabrics used will mainly include Khadi silks (about 75% of the collection) and restricted amount of Khadi cottons.
Jewellyn Alvares: The designer, a leading name in bridal wear segment, has delivered the most cutting-edge designs under the label ‘Jule Bridal’, for over a decade. Having applied various patternmaking techniques in his women’s wear line, this season the designer puts forth a menswear line using spirals, asymmetric layers, controlled volume and pushing the tape further lower, exploring new length levels.
The collection has three directions rolled into cohesions with tunics, pants, shirts, jackets and coats. The collection also involves work with Khadi fabrics in different textures, count and weight. Blurr stripe formations will be used to converge, slope and align, divulging patterns, volume, swirls and some structure as well.
4 designers will showcase their collections with hand-spun and hand-woven Khadi fabrics made by artisans in clusters such as Elgandal in Telangana, Kanjarpur in Madhya Pradesh, Chhattisgarh, Punjab, Malda, Burdwan and Murshidabad in West Bengal
Craftmark x Ka-Sha
Kota Women Weavers
Lakmé Fashion Week partners with Craftmark to facilitate market linkages and promote sustainable artisan clusters in the fashion industry. Craftmark is a certification for genuine indian hand-crafted products, that develops sector-wide, process-specific standards and norms for labeling a product as sustainable, hand-made and increases consumer awareness of distinct handicraft traditions of India. Established in 2006, Craftmark trains craftspeople across India to become competitive professionals, helping communities and families to live, encouraging craft processes to blossom and creating awareness in modern consumer markets.
This association gives Kota textile weavers from Rajasthan* an opportunity to collaborate with designer Karishma Shahani Khan of label Ka-Sha and create a commercial collection for her label. *Kaithun, a small town on the outskirts of Kota in southern Rajasthan, is home to the renowned fabric of Kota Doria. This fine fabric made of a blend of silk and cotton will be the highlight of the collection that will be showcased on Sustainable Fashion Day at Lakmé Fashion Week.
The Kota Women Weavers Organisation (KWWO) is a registered society of more than 1000 women weavers belonging to the Ansari community and is operational since 2005. These women primarily work on pit looms located in their houses to weave intricate patterns in silk and cotton.
AIACA works in Kota with the mission of enabling KWWO to access greater market share and profit through facilitation of business support, skills upgradation, design innovation and effective organisation management. The goal is to ensure sustained and dignified livelihood for the rural women handloom weavers as well as continuation of this unique craft
Designer Note: Taking a cue from the sheerness of the Kota Doria and the extensive use of layering at Ka-sha, our exploration for our collaborative line took us down the path of marrying multiple and in many cases contasting characteristics. The checkered patterns of the weave are as integral to the textile as in the fall and surface glaze. Hand embroidered fabric flowers and thread work adorn the surface seamlessly alongside handwoven checkered and polka patterns. The contract between the organic florals and geometry, the layered kota- voluminous and structured, panelled and overlapped, in deep greens and greys and bright red and mustards, set the tone for our collaboration with the Kota Doria weavers of Kaithun, Rajasthan
Looking at reversibility and multiple uses as a key element in each garment, no garment is the same inside out. Patchworked pieces in a myriad of shapes further highlights this coming together of contract to create a larger picture.
RmKV Silks presents
Recrafting Traditional Silks
In collaboration with Sunita Shanker
Tradition with a Twist
With 94 years of experience in silk, RmKV has set the benchmark in sarees with superior products, design innovations and revolutionary techniques in handloom silk weaving. This season RmKV collaborates with fashion and textile designer, Sunita Shanker, to further push the boundaries in development. A collaboration that encompasses design intervention that is not only contemporary but also has an aesthetic appeal.
The brand is committed to bring a meaningful change in the lives of artisans by providing superior raw material, design innovations and revolutionary techniques in handloom silk weaving. RmKV works with 300 weavers in Arni cluster in Tamil Nadu and provides a retail platform for the works of over 10,000 weavers across the country.
The collaboration puts forth traditional garments with a twist. The collection comprises of well styled garments, signature coordinates that are layered. Evoking a sense of culture & origin. It also encompasses design intervention that is not only contemporary but also has an aesthetic appeal.
The collection comprises classy & chic sarees demonstrating multiple ways of draping, breaking away from tradition, teamed with jackets, capes. .Also worn over trousers, dress or skirts.The colour palette ranges from muted to bright tones.
VRIKSH BY GUNJAN JAIN
Inspired by the Chausat Yogini Temple, the 64 tantric female deities of Odisha, this collection by Gunjan Jain celebrates womanhood representing varied expressions of modern day Yoginis through handwoven saris styled in experimental sari drapes teamed with workwear blouses. The Yogini collection will represent the different feminine concepts of the Yogini cult – magic, fertility, nature, disease and death – all personifying the Shakti principles.
With a special focus on Odisha, Vriksh will introduce handwoven khadi textures in soft Tussar silk fabric from the different regions of the state. Yogini will showcase contemporary designs with traditional Jala and Ikat techniques of Odisha. The presentation will be a 6D show, along that will showcase the sari collection, present an interactive dance performance by a contemporary dancer with screen projections.
Gunjan started her career in the apparel export industry. But soon disillusioned with the industrial process of making clothes and their resultant commoditisation, she packed her bags and moved to Odisha, where she set up her design studio Vriksh in Bhubaneshwar in 2008. Vriksh is an alternate design studio in Odisha founded and headed by Gunjan Jain and it works solely with handloom weavers and natural materials exploring the rich textile tradition of Odisha.
Digital Empowerment Foundation presents
Indigene x Barpali & Nuapatna
Naushad Ali x Musiri
Three by Pallavi Dhyani x Barabanki
Digital empowerment foundation (DEF) has been working for a decade to give underserved rural communities access to equitable information. By making available digital tools like wireless technology, mobile phones, computers and other Information Communication Technology (ICT) tools, DEF creates an ecosystem of digital villages with access to digital services. These services have proven critical in aspects of handloom cluster development, especially improving and scaling up weaving skills, designs, marketing and entrepreneurship, besides creating sustainable livelihood options for the youth in the clusters.
Lakmé Fashion Week and IMG Reliance facilitate a digitally driven designer-artisan collaboration in 3 clusters under Digital Cluster Development Programme (DCDP) -Digital Empowerment Foundation (DEF). The collaboration will be based on inclusive, fair and equal values.
- Indigene x Bargarh District Ikat weavers in Barpali and Nuapatna, Odisha: Indigene’s special design collection with the Orissa Ikat weaving cluster is inspired by the idea of Ikat being a world textile.
The garment silhouettes will mainly be inspired by the elaborate chappans, kurtas and khalats, worn by men and women in Central Asia, another region known for its silk/silk cotton ikat textiles or Abra. These traditional yet stylish garments have been coordinated with slim fit pants to complete the collection look. Indigene strongly believes in minimal wastage and have thus used textile leftovers from their collections to create patchwork scarves and details of tassels and buttons on the garments.
The collection palette is subtle and classic in charcoal, natural white, red and indigo.
- Naushad Ali x Musiri- Tiruchirappali: Eco fashion and craft revival have always been an important part of Naushad Ali’s design philosophy. To further strengthen this culture, the designer label collaborates with DEF to explore the Musiri cluster, a small village in Tamil Nadu. The collection is inspired by the culture and lifestyle of the village. As the fabric gets hand-woven by some of the most talented weavers, the designer has tried to bring out a creative amalgamation between the contemporary design structure and their age-old heritage.
The collection takes inspiration from the captivating village landscape of muddy fields and clear sky, the contrasting wall colors and the lush green trees, which make for a happy, nature kissed winter color palette. The hand-woven saris, the temple walls and various other bits and pieces, stimulate the process of fabric design.
The designer has picked distinctive elements and reworked stripes, checks and ikats, making it more abstract and color blocked. The basic cotton fabric which is known to occupy a lot of weight has been quilted in interesting forms to give it a unique style statement.
3. Three x Barabanki district cotton weavers in Saidanpur- Bihar : THREE rests on the concept of ‘Immortal Design’. With cotton being the elemental ingredient, every piece is handcrafted into timeless possession. Its making involves everlasting feelings, memories and emotions woven together with aesthetics for an alternative expression. At Three, we design keepsakes for women and men, that are meant to last seasons, outlast trends, and complement your personality without overpowering your individuality. Inspired by the geometry you find in nature, our clothes are meant to be layered, and pair effortlessly with pieces that already reside in your wardrobe.
Collection note-Mute, is a line of comfort wear bearing our minimal signature and created with 100% hand loom cotton. The greys, deep purple and burnt orange echo a warm palette of fall. The earthy handwoven fabric has been treated with applique and quilting. You will find our classic stripes revamped with vertical applique to lend it a modern look and feel, suited for urban everyday living .
At Eka the ethos of the brand are shaped through textiles favoring the mechanics and raw beauty of natural fibers. Each season we work with our weavers and artisans to create something beautiful and special.
For Autumn Winter’19 Collection, we have worked with hand-spun & hand-woven cotton (khadi), hand-woven linen- adding dexterity to the textile techniques. We have worked with a variety of stripes, checks, borders and hand block ¬prints developed for the season.
A technique called ‘Kata Makur Kaj’, in local language in rural Bengal or ‘Cut Shuttle’ in English, was developed with Jagdish Biswas -age 55, Bachchu Das- age 50 and Rabindra Biswas-age 55, Kumud Biswas-age 50 all residents of Nadia District, Shantipur, West Bengal. Khadi cotton cut shuttle fabric is developed in 33’s x 33’s. Linen cut shuttle fabric developed in half and half fabric yarn 80 lea linen and half and half check cut shuttle fabric used yarn 60lea x 60lea linen (linen yarn made in Grasim Aditya Birla Jayashree Textiles).
The collection features ‘Sojani’ embroidery from Kashmir on dress in wool, khadi and linen. Abdul Gaffar Dar did the embroidery along with more karigars like Ali Mohammad Dar, Ghulam Rasool Bhat, Abdul Rehman Dar, Mohammad Ibraheem Mir in Gutlibagh, Kashmir.
Also woodblocks in chintz print were specially developed and made by Mukesh bhai in Pethapur, Gujarat.
All printing, manufacturing and finishing happens in our studio factory with a slow production methodology, and using minimum waste from production philosophy, followed under stringent controls.
TENCEL™ Presents Rajesh Pratap Singh
Taking forward the collaboration with Lenzing in India for Lakmè Fashion Week – Sustainable Fashion Day (on 23 August 2018), leading Indian designer Rajesh Pratap Singh has conceptualised an innovative collection with Tencel™ sustainable fibre for his Winter/Festive 2018 showcase.
The designer’s core idea this season is to combine the strength of one of the world’s most ecological fibres, Tencel™, along with the indigenous magic of Indian heritage crafts on the one hand and technology on the other. The result will be a one of its kind sustainable fashion collection that will represent innovation on a global level with green fibre and artisanal textiles.
For the first time in the label’s history, the designer will be creating an Indian ethnic style collection with womenswear and menswear looks. In true Rajesh Pratap Singh signature style, the collection will have a modern and contemporary twist to the Indian interpretation of Tencel™ weaves with surprising and intelligent details.
The designer is using a variety of TENCEL™ yarns and fabrics and will be engaging iconic Indian crafts such as Chanderi, Benarasi, Jamdani, hand-block prints and more. The collection promises to surprise through various elements and reinterpretations of some classic artworks.
Tencel™ branded lyocell fiber is derived from sustainable wood sources and harvested from 100 percent traceable certified and controlled sources following the stringent guidelines of the Lenzing Wood and Pulp Policy. Tencel™ branded lyocell fiber is produced in a closed loop solvent-spinning production process, which transforms wood pulp into cellulosic fibers with high resource efficiency and low ecological impact. This economically viable manufacturing process recycles process water and reuses the solvent at a recovery rate of more than 99%. This process received the European Award for the Environment from the European Commission in the category ‘The Technology Award for Sustainable Development’.
About Sustainable Fashion Initiative at LFW:
In it’s 7th year, the Sustainable Fashion Day (SFD) at Lakmè Fashion Week (LFW) (organised by IMG Reliance two times a year) has become a leading platform to showcase inspiring narratives in the mainstream fashion industry in India on how fashion can be an agent for positive change in social, economic and environmental dimensions. SFD brings together an ecosystem of diverse stakeholders such as creative and design entrepreneurs, NGOs and artisan platforms, press and media, buyers and retail chains along with Government, VIP’s and influencers on one platform to think and act about creating fashion that does good for the environment and its people. SFD enables creation of empowerment opportunities for the smallest producers in the rural areas and encourages fashion/design entrepreneurs to work with artisans for sustainable livelihoods. At the same time, it creates a movement for driving innovative solutions in sustainability in the apparel and textiles industry. IMG Reliance is working with prestigious organisations such as United Nations, Ministry of Textiles – GoI, British Council, Lenzing Austria, Usha International and Raymond among others on various sustainability initiatives.
About Lakmé Fashion Week:
Lakmé Fashion Week is jointly organized by Lakmé, the No.1 cosmetics and beauty services brand in India and IMG Reliance Pvt. Ltd., leaders in sports, fashion and entertainment marketing and management.
Lakmé Fashion Week has been conceived and created with a vision to “Redefine the future of fashion and Integrate India into the global fashion world.” Lakmé Fashion Week is organized twice every year. For further information log on to
Contemporary Indian beauty expert Lakmé continuously innovates to offer a wide range of, high performance and world class color cosmetics, skincare products, and beauty salons. In addition to leveraging Unilever’s worldwide expertise, Lakmé also partners with the leading cosmetic house Milan-based Intercos Italia, Schwann Stabilo Germany and Paris based Fiabila. Combining international cosmetic technology with an in-depth understanding of the Indian woman’s needs, Lakmé also offers its consumers a comprehensive beauty experience through its products and services at the Lakmé Salons and Studios. For further information log on to.
About IMG Reliance:
IMG Reliance Pvt Ltd., is an equal joint venture between Reliance Industries Limited (RIL), India’s largest and most recognized private sector company, and IMG Worldwide (IMG), global leaders in sports, events, media and fashion.
The joint venture company develops, markets and manages sports, fashion and entertainment in India. Its current assets include India’s premier fashion event, Lakmé Fashion Week, Indian Super League and the Maharashtra Open. IMGR, having recently ventured into Talent Management, represents Rohit Sharma and Hardik Pandya for worldwide management and marketing representation.